Ray Cote has been building custom rods for over 10 years. He has taught clases at the Fly fishing University in Danbury Ct for the last few years, as well as at several clubs and organizations in the New England area. We also give the class out of our shop a couple of times a year. If you are interested in a rod building class for your organization, Please send me an E-mail at gizmocpns@aol.com and I would be happy to send you the information and requirements. 

These pictures are from a rod class that we did this spring in Garrison NY. These guys built a bunch of great rods. They had  a beautiful facility and were really into the rod building making it a great time for everyone. We are so glad you invited us to your club, We had a great time!

We will start with some basic rod building questions that we hear several times a week. From there we will progress into problems or special interest questions as they may arise. If you have a question please E-mail me at gizmocpns@aol.com and we will get the anawer to you ASAP!

Can anyone build a rod?
     Yes, even you can build you own rod. We have had only 1 student in the past 5+ years who has failed to complete his rod. We think that is a great record. You will need some manual dexterity. We find that those who work with thier hands, such as carpenters, plumber, or machinest, have an easier time but we have had many lawyers, doctors, and accountants who have successfully completed a rod or two. 

Where do I place the guides?  
    We provide a spacing chart with each blank that is purchased, If you did not buy you blank from us, contact the seller, and her should provide you with a chart which tells you not only where to place the guides but size you should use for optimal performance of the finished rod.

Do I need to buy a lot of equipment?
   There are lots of tools that make rod building easier, and lots more that the good salesman will insist that you have to have, but no you do not need a lot of extra stuff. The bare minimum is a good pair of small pointed scissors, masking tape, a couple of different size files, a tape measure, and a stone to file down the legs on the guides. A rod bench is very helpful, a basic $25 model is fine, but you can make due without one. You will also need epoxy to attach the handle and reel seat, and finish for the guides to protect and seal the wraps.

What is the difference between a $25.00 blank and a $250.00 blank?
     A lot of things effect the price of the blank not all of them important to the final use of the product. The things you want to consider when purchasing a blank is the type of material that it is made of. Graphite blanks are made of different "grades" of graphite. The different grades translates into a different action. The basic graphite gives you the slower or more forgiving casting action. The IM6, and IM7 graphite are a more moderate action. The RX7 or IMX it a faster action and better for those who have perfected their timing when casting. The faster action blanks usually carry a higher price tag. If you decide on one of the "Big Names" blanks you are also paying for lots of advertising, the replacement warrantee (whether you use it or not) and well as a lot of testing and development. The best way to pick a blank or rod that is good for you is to go to a shop or a sportsman show, and test out some rods. See what feels right for you. Once you know the action that is the most comfortable for you, you can decide what price range best fits your budget. 

Help my finish will not set! What did I do wrong??
   There are 2 common reasons that the epoxy will not set on your blank, The first is that you did not follow directions and mix the epoxy EXACTLY as directed. I cannot stress enough how important it is to mix equal parts in each batch. The second most common culprit is humidity. If there is too much moisture in the air, the epoxy will not set up. We keep a dehumidifier running at the shop, and keep the temperature at an optimum 70 degrees. If your rod finish is over 1 year old, this may be the problem, but if it has been purchased recently, Your problem is most likely one of the first two.

After 24 hours my rod finish is still sticky. Now what?  
     You can mix another batch of rod finish, and re-coat the guide wraps. Before you do make sure the humidity is low, and that the temperature is at least 70 degrees in the area you will be finishing the rod. It is not necessary to remove the old finish that is still sticky, If all goes well with the second application, it will seal everything in nicely. If you want to start with a clean slate, you will have to remove not only the rod finish but the guide wraps as well. Remove the wraps with a razor blade being VERY careful not to nick the blank in the process.